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In Burkina Faso and countries across Africa, women like Fanta Lingani (pictured) often put their family's food needs ahead of their own. In the midst of the current food crisis, that can mean severe malnutrition.
(Photo: Michael Williamson / The Washington Post)

Cultural expectations ensure women are hit hardest by burgeoning food crisis.

    Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso - After she woke in the dark to sweep city streets, after she walked an hour to buy less than $2 worth of food, after she cooked for two hours in the searing noon heat, Fanta Lingani served her family's only meal of the day.

    First she set out a bowl of corn mush, seasoned with tree leaves, dried fish and wood ashes, for the 11 smallest children, who tore into it with bare hands.

    Then she set out a bowl for her husband. Then two bowls for a dozen older children. Then finally, after everyone else had finished, a bowl for herself. She always eats last.

    A year ago, before food prices nearly doubled, Lingani would have had three meals a day of meat, rice and vegetables. Now two mouthfuls of bland mush would have to do her until tomorrow.

    Rubbing her red-rimmed eyes, chewing lightly on a twig she picked off the ground, Lingani gave the last of her food to the children.

    "I'm not hungry," she said.

    In poor nations, such as Burkina Faso in the heart of West Africa, mealtime conspires against women. They grow the food, fetch the water, shop at the market and cook the meals. But when it comes time to eat, men and children eat first, and women eat last and least.

    Soaring prices for food and fuel have pushed more than 130 million poor people across vast swaths of Africa, Asia and Latin America deeper into poverty in the past year, according to the U.N. World Food Program (WFP). But while millions of men and children are also hungrier, women are often the hungriest and skinniest. Aid workers say malnutrition among women is emerging as a hidden consequence of the food crisis.

    "It's a cultural thing," said Herve Kone, director of a group that promotes development, social justice and human rights in Burkina Faso. "When the kids are hungry, they go to their mother, not their father. And when there is less food, women are the first to eat less."

    A recent study by the aid group Catholic Relief Services found that many people in Burkina Faso are now spending 75 percent or more of their income on food, leaving little for other basic needs such as medical care, school fees and clothes.

    Pregnant women and young mothers are forgoing medical care. More women are turning to prostitution to pay for food. And more families are pulling children - especially girls - out of school.

    The food crisis has not yet led to famine, and in places such as Burkina Faso, people generally appear relatively healthy. The WFP and other agencies have pumped in millions of dollars' worth of aid and food, and markets generally are well-stocked - just prohibitively expensive. But for poor people, food is increasingly difficult to come by, and many families sometimes eat as little as one meal a day. Aid agencies worry about the long-term effects of dramatically reduced diets.

    As the crisis continues to build around the world, perhaps its most pervasive effect is the ache in the stomachs of millions of poor women like Fanta Lingani.

    Sweeping for Pennies

    Lingani, who sleeps on a concrete floor, began one recent day at 4 a.m. and dressed quietly in the dark. All around her, children slept on the cracked floor under a tin roof, common conditions in a country that ranks 176th out of 177 on the U.N. Human Development Index.

    A year ago, Lingani might have started a small fire to boil herself a cup of weak coffee. But even that is now too expensive.

    Such sacrifices led to food riots in February in Ouagadougou, the capital, and towns across the country. Hundreds of people were arrested after they set fires and smashed government buildings to protest rising prices. But for Lingani, the struggle is quieter, and harder by the day, and it starts before the sun comes up.

    Lingani, who said she is about 50, walked across the dirt courtyard past the two-room hut where her husband was sleeping in his own double bed, with a thick mattress. The dirt street outside was muddy and steamy from an overnight rain shower.

    After a half-hour walk on the black-dark streets, she reported for work and pulled on the long green smock of the Green Brigade, a city program that pays poor women the equivalent of about $1.20 a day to sweep streets two mornings a week.

    Lingani picked up a pair of small straw brooms and pushed a wheelbarrow onto a wide, deserted avenue. In the orange haze of streetlights, she bent over at the waist, so far that her bottom was higher than her head, and started pushing red dust into little piles.

    The "shssssh shssssh" of her sweeping was the only sound, except for the crowing of a few roosters and occasional laughter from men at an all-night bar down the road.

    She worked a section of road about 150 yards long, while a dozen others in the all-female brigade swept along. A tanker truck sped down the street, kicking up a cloud of dust into her face and blowing away her little piles. She coughed, pulled her pink head scarf across her face and swept the same dust all over again.

    Lingani swept until the sun came up, pushing her piles onto a small metal dish, then dumping them into a wheelbarrow and finally into a pothole on an unpaved side street.

    By 7 a.m., she'd finished her section. But she had to wait an hour for a male supervisor to show up and check her work. In two weeks, she would get her monthly pay of less than $10.

    "The Job of Women"

    Lingani walked a half hour back to her house, where her huge family was starting to stir. She took off her smock and picked up a green plastic basket about the size of a shoebox.

    Market time. She and one of her two "co-wives," Asseta Zagre, do the shopping on alternate days. Their husband's other wife, the senior of the three, is nearly blind and can't do chores anymore.

    Polygamy is common in much of Africa. In this household, the patriarch is Hamado Zorome, 68, a retired police officer whose pension is the family's main income - but he doesn't tell his wives how much he gets.

    The pension of a mid-level civil servant is probably modest in Burkina Faso, where the United Nations says nearly 72 percent of the country's 15 million people live on less than $2 a day.

    Zorome also collects a "tip" of 60 cents from each of his two working wives when they get their monthly pay, which he uses to buy the kola nuts he likes to chew.

    Lingani and Zagre, who also sweeps streets, said Zorome doles out small amounts of money for them to buy staples such as cornmeal. But the bulk of the family's meals are paid for out of the wives' sweeping wages.

    Preparing to leave for the market, Lingani kept bending over and rubbing her ankles and feet. She said they hurt from sweeping for so long. She has never weighed herself, but she said she can feel a significant loss in her weight and strength in the past year.

    Last month's sweeping money was already gone. So she went to her husband, who handed her about $2.50 for groceries. He told her to spend no more than about 75 cents and save the rest for another day. "Women are born with this job" of feeding the family, Lingani said, as she walked around puddles and past goats tied to trees. "The man has to have his share. And we have to make sure the kids have their share. So we eat less."

    Lingani said none of the older boys in the family has a steady job, since work is hard to come by in this poor city, so the boys mostly spend their days doing odd jobs or playing soccer. What little money they earn they tend to spend on food and beer for themselves, she said.

    "A man can never sit at home. They are always out somewhere," Lingani said. "They don't do anything. They don't help."

    Lingani walked past stands where women were selling fruit or water, assisted by small girls. A few men sold bags or charcoal, but most were sitting in the shade and talking.

    "Men and women should fight together for the children," Lingani said. "But if the men won't do that, the women have to fight alone."

    Zorome, Lingani's husband, said that men don't help with shopping and cooking because "that is the job of women." Like many men interviewed here, he said African culture clearly defines roles for men, who work outside the house, and women, who manage children and meals.

    He said that men are willing to work but that jobs are scarce. He would prefer it if his wives didn't have to sweep streets, but "life is much more expensive now."

    "Last year, we could eat well, but now, forget it," he said. "My sons don't work, so it's up to me to feed 25 people. That's why the women sweep. We don't have anything, so they have to work. That's life."

    On her way to the market, Lingani explained the ugly math: A year ago, she could feed her entire family a nutritious meal of meat and vegetables and peanut sauce for about 75 cents. But now the family gets much lower-quality food for twice the price.

    She said the cost of six pounds of cornmeal has risen from 75 cents to $1.50. A kilogram - 2.2 pounds - of rice cost 60 cents last year and costs a little more than $1 now. Other basics such as salt and cooking oil have also doubled in price.

    Fuel costs have more than doubled for trucks that haul food to landlocked Burkina Faso, helping keep food prices high.

    Beef or goat meat is now so expensive - about $1.20 for a tiny portion - that the family has given up meat completely, eating cheap dried fish instead. Rather than seasoning their sauces with vegetables and peanuts, they now use the tough leaves of baobab trees, the gnarly giants that flourish here in the dry lands south of the Sahara.

    To soften the leaves' sour taste, Lingani mixes in potash, a paste made by boiling down water strained through ashes.

    "In the past, our money would last the whole month. We might even have some left over," Lingani said. "But now as soon as it arrives, we spend it."

    Dinner happens only if there is a bit of food left over from lunch. Even then, she said, there is rarely enough left for women.

    "When the children ask for food, we have to give it to them," she said. "We're mothers."

    Never Enough

    "Are you sure you don't want more?" the vegetable vendor asked Lingani. "Is that enough for your family?"

    Lingani, standing in a crowded neighborhood market, had just asked the woman for 30 cents' worth of baobab leaves.

    "No, it's fine," Lingani said, handing over a few coins.

    The vendor shrugged and stashed the coins under a sack of tomatoes covered with a beard of small flies. She handed Lingani some change, which she counted carefully.

    At the next stall, Lingani bought four small onions. As she turned to leave, the seller tossed in a fifth with an understanding smile. Lingani caught her eye and thanked her.

    Moving through the churning mass of people, Lingani bought a bag of dried fish, a small plastic bag of salt, two small cubes of beef bouillon and a bag of potash, the paste made from ashes.

    In 10 minutes, her shopping was done. She had spent double her budget of 75 cents.

    After the half-hour walk home, with the temperature already above 90, Lingani and Zagre started plucking the baobab she bought at the market, saving the leaves and throwing away the thick stems.

    For an hour, the two women methodically pounded the rough leaves in a wooden bowl, then dumped them into a pot boiling over a wood fire. Then Lingani added the dried fish and some of the ash flavoring.

    "Of course we would prefer something else," she said. "But it's the cheapest thing we can buy, and we can afford enough to feed everybody."

    Two hours after she started cooking, Lingani scooped out six bowls of flavorless food. The first was for Zorome, delivered to his hut. He ate it alone, then said he felt as though he needed a nap.

    Others were set aside to be shared by the children.

    The last bowl, slightly larger than Zorome's, was to be shared by 10 people: Lingani, Zagre and eight small grandchildren. Lingani took two bites before letting five hungry toddlers finish her food.

    Near the front gate, half a dozen children sat in a circle. They had built a play fire out of pieces of bark. On top they had placed a plastic cup, overflowing with street garbage.

    They were pretending to cook. "We're cooking rice with meat!" said a beaming Ousmane, 6, the head chef.

    His father, Zorome, watched the game and laughed. He was asked if he would eat again today. Yes, he said, Lingani would make him a little rice or porridge for dinner that night.

    Nearby, his daughters and granddaughters heard him and exploded. "What are you talking about?" they said. "Why are you saying that? We have no food."

    Zorome smiled sadly and admitted his lie.

    "When we have food one day, we have to tighten our belt the next," he said. "But it is very hard for a man to admit when things are not good."

    Lingani was still sitting next to her empty food bowl. She had stopped the children from finishing one last lump of corn mush, about the size of her fist.

    "The small children will be crying in a couple of hours, so we have to save it," she said. Her voice was small and soft, and she didn't look up from the red dirt. She said she felt "very sad."

    "I'm thinking too much," she said.

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Comments

Thanks for the article.

Thanks for the article. Stories like Lingani's should raise questions about how we in our relative wealth respond to poverty in Africa and other parts of the world. There are certainly many questions--of policy, of methodologies, of purposes. I know that one organization working in Burkino Faso is World Neighbors, and that through its Work of Women programs (www.workofwomen.org) at least some lives have been and are being changed as women are encouraged to hold on to dignity while assuming responsibility for the affairs of their lives. Maternal health care (including family planning), efficient agriculture, and micro-credit are some of the methodologies encouraged among the women of Burkino Faso, and the women in the programs always participate in making the decisions about their livelihoods.

The reason why these people

The reason why these people suffer at this point is because of their leaders. How come Blaise compaore who have a lot of fortune in France cannot try to improve his country condition. This president knows nothing. how come someone who is know internationally population can starve to death. Misfortune to those who gag the poor people contribution."T.S"

There's not enough food to

There's not enough food to go around for a few children, so you have 25 children hoping that one or two won't starve to death? That doesn't make much sense at all! The original concept of Polygamy wasn't about a man getting more and more sexual partners, it was more about a man taking on more and more RESPONSIBILITIES, He had multiple wives only because he could AFFORD to have them - and was able to feed, house, and properly care for them and all the children that they brought forth into the world. Polygamy just doesn't work for poor people - it merely leads to more desperation. One of the only legitimate reasons poor people would have need of so many children is if they had a family farm to run and could use all the helping hands they could get. In many cases they may still be dirt poor, but they would usually have enough to eat and be more self sustaining. And, while I will agree that politics and greed ARE responsible for much of the misery in our world, there really is no purely political solution. The solution requires a spiritual awakening for all of mankind. A New World that was envisioned and spoke of by Jesus Christ where we are all brothers - one people living together in peace under a just and loving God. Until then there will only be constant fighting with the biggest, meanest, greediest people taking ALL there is to take.

I am ashamed of the posters

I am ashamed of the posters who so easily demand birth control as the solution to poverty. You might as well say-"Let them eat cake". Female Chemical Birth control is expensive. And has its own risks, when you are living without medical care and education. An expensive operation is out of the question. And for poor uneducated males, to be made sterile is considered of no practical purpose and shameful. When you live in such poverty-many of your children will die. So you have many-so the odds are that at least some will survive. And the chidren help with the work...and are your only social security in old age. Most hunger is political. Poor people have their lands stolen from them...and then they are blamed for their hunger. However, there IS a simple answer- EAT THE RICH! Let us put the blame where it really belongs. Limit personal wealth. Put money into education and local food production, the world over.

Here is an Englishman who

Here is an Englishman who would like to see those "men" who exploit their women subjected to hard labour, even to the use of the lash, while their "wives" look on and eat and the men are made to exist on minimal rations... I know the practice of polygamy is common in Africa and contraception almost unknown - perhaps an "enlightened" ruler might impose castration after the second child. And Islam doesn't help....

My heart goes out to all

My heart goes out to all that hunger in this world! Yes.. the world is filled with greedy people taking way too much for themselves, but 3 wives and 25 children IS overdoing it a bit and only contributes to the overall problem. The spread of hunger (and AIDS) in Africa appear to have a common denominator and our brothers over there need to "tie a knot" in it! They should also get off their asses and do something constructive - instead of just screwing every single woman they can lay their hands on. We appear to have a bit of that same problem right here in the good ol' USA... where their little heads do all the thinking for them instead of the big ones sitting on top of their shoulders! Take some damn control over your own lives and do something about the problems you create... instead of whining and blaming everybody else for what you have only done to yourselves!

25 children? This will get

25 children? This will get worse until we get real. A few hundred years ago slavery was the horror; today it is the treatment of women. This isn't a food price problem, because,families with 25 children will, in one or two generations, deplete the world food supplies. Families in America are also hungry; just look at food shortages in food banks, and it is almost always the women who suffer. The U.N. doesn't even take crimes like rape very seriously. Women's health, including cultural education of men, is urgently needed. Women are punished for seeking family planning, instead of being encouraged to help keep food supplies available for their entire village and nation; and that includes in America. America will soon be just as poor, if we don't change priorities. This isn't a matter of "elite" sharing food; it is a matter of urgent help for all women around the world, who face conditions of slavery inside their households.

This is very sad and, while

This is very sad and, while I want to be culturally sensitive about people wanting large families, why is there no mention of population control? If we don't face the issue of 6 billion people on the planet nature will do it for us...famine is one way this will be done despite the fading "green revolution." And it is not just a matter of redistributing wealth, though that would help. We are at about the max for people on the planet. Scratch the surface of any environmental problem and population growth is the root cause.

The problem in this world is

The problem in this world is greed. So few have so much while the number of those who have nothing is so great. This planet has plenty of resources for all if it were shared equally. The rich rape the earth of its riches and reap huge profits for themselves. Many waste so much and are aren't satisfied with what they need but what they want and their wants are never satisfied. My heart aches every day as I see such horrors brought about by selfishness and those who do not love their fellow man. With this global warming and governments, especially under the corrupt Bush administration continuing to push for methods that add to the warming it appears that man may not survive. You can't continually rape this planet and expect a good outcome. Perhaps man does not deserve to survive. Unfortunately the good will perish along with the criminals that fight to bring these things about.

Thank you for helping us to

Thank you for helping us to see something of the other 90%. Shame, shame on us that such a strong and devoted woman should have to be long suffering as well. Surely something can be done to help these people. But wait, no more time, gotta run the SUV to the store to get my child his/her obligatory $500 in birthday gifts.

This is exactly the kind of

This is exactly the kind of injustice in this world of plenty that will be changed one day, and a lot sooner than the ones that 'have it all' realize. There is more than enough food to feed all the hungry in this world if it were not for Corrupted governments that steal from their people. This goes on all over this world, in Rich as well as Poor countries. The rich care not who they steal from as long as they can get away with it. Them, with their million dollar mansions and their fancy cars, cannot take it with them to Hell. They will cry out for Relief and more fire will be heaped on them for each cry they utter. The aid that is sent to the starving, sick and homeless is siphoned off by the Tyrants that are supposed to dole it out to the needy so that only a small portion reaches the people. The madness of it all is enough to drive the sane mad. I think the Weapons are in the wrong hands. I think that a good old fashioned uprising is in order. ( Though I am sure that will have to be done by the Females, as the men are too busy being men !) It is a fact that the Poor will always be with us..but that does not mean that we are supposed to ignore them and not help them to the best of our ability. Do you honestly think that has ever been done, or is being done today ?

What can be done about this

What can be done about this perpetuation of patriarchal systems, ones where women have no choice in how many children they bear and who don't seem to have the choice to remain single? I understand that in virtually every culture children are a blessing, but doesn't Catholic Relief Services discourage bigamy and multiple births at once that result? How can it be moral that only one or two women caring for a score of children and a man? This confounds me. Where is the UN? Sometimes I think that peacekeeping forces should include ones that protect women from cruel cultural norms. Women's suffering, in the end, is not compelling to politicians.

This is what the elite have

This is what the elite have in store for us all! It is all preventable and unnecessary and we should be protesting all around the world but due to lack of understanding and hopelessness as well as s0me old obstacles such as racism and sexism, we will never be able to protest with any power. It would take a miracle because we identify with our enemy rather than with each other. Always the most vulnerable due to social status will go first, leaving the rest of us content to excuse it as being their problem and not ours. Only when we feel the pinch ourselves will we join them in our mutual struggle to survive. But it is and will always be set up so that it will happen in layers, with the most vulnerable being taken out first. "First they came for the poor African women..and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a poor African woman." When all the women die then the children will be next to starve, and then the men and then all of African people, then the starvation will spread to other people of color around the world and finally to all working people around the world. And by then it will be too late to stand together in solidarity. Then we will all die. That's their plan for depopulating the planet.

I am not Catholic but agree

I am not Catholic but agree with the recent comments made by the Pope. The rich must do more to help the poor, especially the poorest of the poor as described here. The breakthrough of "Plumpynut" as a nutritional supplement is one that I discovered whilst reading yesterday. It is amazing...and doing amazing things. Perhaps this could be a viable crop/industry for these people. http://www.nutriset.fr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=41&Itemid=33
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